Heavy is the head that wears the crown. This saying is apt for talented veteran Portuguese Chef José Avillez. Celebrated for his take on Portuguese cuisine with meticulous attention, his concept restaurants such as the famed BELCANTO and ENCANTO have earned recognition from the Michelin Awards and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, the former of which also made him as the first chef in Lisbon and Portugal to attain two Michelin Stars. His latest venture, Mesa by José Avillez, was conceived to introduce authentic Portuguese cuisine with a contemporary twist in Macau. After all, who better to showcase the diverse flavours of both cultures than José Avillez?
Mesa by José Avillez is the award-winning chef’s second venture outside of Portugal, the first being the one-Michelin-starred TASCA at the Mandarin Oriental Jumeira hotel in Dubai that debuted in 2019.
José Avillez’s debut foray into East Asia
Opened in 2021, Mesa by José Avillez reinforces the chef’s passion for delivering authentic yet elevated Portuguese gastronomy to diners. The decision to have this destination restaurant in Macau wasn’t a hasty decision; the special administrative region of China was once a Portuguese colony, which is why Chef Avillez identifies with its city’s Portuguese and Chinese heritage.
Mesa means “Table” in Portuguese, and the restaurant upholds its semiotics by offering contemporary Portuguese creations inspired by Portugal’s tradition of sharing food and drink. The East-Meets-West characteristics are further exemplified by Chef Herlander Fernandes, who brings local insights to the table.
Diners will find a sense of familiarity at Mesa by José Avillez, especially since Chef Avillez has curated a selection of signature dishes from his restaurants in Portugal and updated them with Chef Fernandes for the menu here. Here, his famous Portuguese ingredients are presented with a modern flair and backed with authenticity. Of course, expect dishes like the Suckling Pig, Piri Piri Chicken, and Bacalhau (Cod) on the menu.
Portuguese wines are also under the spotlight, and the restaurant offers 1,427 labels of old and new world wines curated by Mesa’s in-house award-winning sommeliers. The list includes a vast selection, ranging from a crisp Vinho Verde to Portuguese ‘green wine‘ that originated in the historic Minho province. The latter is perfect for pairing with the starters at Mesa.
Adjacent to the restaurant is a bar which appeared in the expanded list of “Asia’s 50 best bars” in 2022 at No. 82. Guests can enjoy pre-or post-dinner drinks from a bespoke cocktail menu inspired by both Portugal’s and Macau’shistory and landmarks. A signature drink is “Last Back Garden” – concocted with Jasmine-infused Gin, Bird’s Nest, Wolfberry Rock Sugar Syrup, and Mint.
Mesa by José Avillez’s tantalising gastronomic creations are housed under THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU. With its interiors designed and overseen by the late designer himself, the oriental-inspired decor offers the perfect setting for the dishes here, especially since both are met with an East-meets-West approach. The designer’s signature style – geometric patterns with accents of black, white, and gold – are amplified by the opulence and grandeur of the property, and we promise it’ll leave you in awe.
Get properly acquainted with contemporary Portuguese cuisine at Mesa by José Avillez
There’s no better way to learn more about Mesa’s concept than to hear it from Chef José Avillez himself. In April 2024, Chef Avillez made a trip to Mesa to execute an off-menu degustation experience which featured quintessential Portuguese dishes with a modern approach.
At Mesa by José Avillez, diners discovered a new light on contemporary Portuguese cuisine. With Chef Avillez gracing the culinary stage at Mesa by José Avillez within THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU, an unforgettable gastronomic adventure is expected. Below is a showcase of what you can expect at Mesa by José Avillez.
Introducing the degustation experience is a snack duo of a delicate chicken and coastal shrimp bite with smoked avocado cream and chilli alongside a Crispy codfish cake. The former showcased two commonly used ingredients from Portugal that represent the countryside and the sea which was rounded up with smoked avocado which provided a hint of creaminess and smoky flavour. The latter zhushed up a classic Portuguese snack with a play of textures from the crispy battered skin and fleshy interior, enhanced by a touch of Moroccan flavour in the lemon confit.
Seafood is ever-present in Portuguese cuisine and one of the gems of the Portuguese coast is the Carabineiro. Mesa by José Avillez spotlights the beauty of this ingredient by extracting its slightly sweet seafood-laced flavour and umami-ness with the exoticism of a Thai curry made from scarlet prawn heads and finished with refreshing diced apples.
The tour de force of the degustation menu has got to be the Bairrada suckling pig. Hailing from a coastal Portugal region, this dish eventually became one of many beloved Portuguese delicacies. Mesa by José Avillez’s reinterpretation of this dish saw the addition of the tender coriander pork trotters stew sandwiched between the crispy and juicy suckling pig.
Ending the experience on a sweet note is the award-winning Chocolate in Three Textures. Diners were immersed in the exquisite qualities of chocolate in varied forms and temperatures that exude different flavour notes.
Before the experience, we had a chat with the distinguished chef about what it was like serving traditional Portuguese cuisine abroad with Mesa by José Avillez and being a supportive mentor to the next generation.
Q&A with Chef José Avillez of Mesa by José Avillez
AM: Describe Mesa by José Avillez in three words
José Avillez: Contemporary, Portuguese, and Trendy.
What are your intentions and expectations of Mesa compared to other restaurants under your name in Portugal such as BELCANTO?
It’s always a big challenge to come abroad and to cook Portuguese food. Away from Portugal, we are challenged by the ingredients and different new guests. Being here and set against the [unique] interior design by Karl Lagerfeld also, is a big challenge. We try to bring Portuguese cuisine into the city, but not the traditional one. But instead, the contemporary one which adapts to this interior design and with local flavours.
We don’t change to adapt to local flavours, but we try to share different things for people to try different things with a Portuguese identity. For example, we change something like decreasing the salt. The Portuguese normally eat with a little bit more salt than here in Asia and China. The recipe [we have] will try to bring the original flavours but in a contemporary style.
Tell us your approach in introducing Portuguese cuisine to someone discovering it for the first time.
The Portuguese used to travel a lot, back in the 1500s. We’ve been to Brazil, India, and are one of the first countries from the Western world to arrive in Japan. So, we have dishes like tempura. We also have a mix of great seafood in Portugal.
Although we are quite a small country, we have many different regions. Cities close to the shores have all kinds of fish and shellfish. Hence, we are also one of the only countries in the world that have the most emblematic ingredients. We also like to use spices, like cinnamon in desserts. But it’s very difficult to give a label to Portuguese gastronomy because it’s actually very rich. But I would say seafood, like the Bacalhau (cod) – is something iconic from Portugal and Spain.
Why the decision to expand your presence into Macau?
It’s very special for us to be able to showcase contemporary Portuguese cuisine to such a big market and so far away from our country. The first project that we have abroad is in Dubai. Now we’re here, it’s very special to understand how the guests receive it. Some are experiencing the cuisine for the first time and they like it. Portuguese cuisine in Macau is more well known, of course, with the Portuguese connection with this territory. So we bring here a new take on Portuguese cuisine, and that is important for us.
How do you incorporate what Macau has to offer, such as its rich culture, into your creations for Mesa?
Beyond ingredients, we tried to use techniques. But if you start using a lot of local ingredients, what will happen is that it creates a new cuisine. So, at least for the initial years [in Macau], we try to maintain a Portuguese identity. But there’s a duck dish that we serve here that’s typical of Portugal, using a similar technique from China to create the crispy skin. We learn everywhere we go, but we try to remain faithful to our identity.
What has been the most fulfilling moment since opening Mesa?
I think for us chefs, the best moments are always the smiles on people’s faces when they eat our food. Sometimes you get [ranked] into important lists and have already attained the stars. But at the end of the day, we are cooks. For me, to cook is to care. So, taking care of our guests and seeing the smile on their faces because they’re happy with what they’re eating is the most important thing [for me].
Is there a dish here that you like or is your favourite from Mesa?
There are the classics like the Bacalhau (cod). It’s something that I love. We also did a typical Portuguese dish, the seafood rice, but we adapted to Mesa, and that became very successful. We also have this crispy cod cake that’s like a tempura. The original cod cake. Normally, it’s not fried with the tempura, but here we used tempura batter which became something that the local market loves. We are very happy with that.
I like many cuisines in the world, and I understand that I still don’t know everything about Portuguese cuisine, so I want to continue learning about the different regions and the different kinds of food. Understanding the world’s cuisine is by no means easy, especially if you go to big countries like China or India where it varies so much from region to region.
As I’ve mentioned, Portugal is a small country, but it’s also very different from region to region. I want to travel more within Portugal to understand that to be able to promote even better Portuguese cuisine. I’m also very focused on my team. We have a big team in both Portugal and Dubai and I’m here to help them improve and to help them create and develop in their [culinary] profession.
I’m quite worried about mental health issues that the younger generations face and I think that a good working environment can help them. So, I’m focused on my company. On that note, I do not only receive the best they can give but also give back to them, for them to feel happy at work and help them find a purpose. I have a team with individuals who are very young like 19 and some may feel a little bit lost, and I want to show them the way.
Now, I’m very happy to create a gastronomic legacy and be a mentor at the same time because it’s something that I’m giving back to people after what they’ve given me. And if they’re better, I’m better.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Mesa by José Avillez is located at Level 3, THE KARL LAGERFELD MACAU, Grand Lisboa Palace, Rua do Tiro, Cotai, Macao. Click here for reservations to Mesa by José Avillez or call (853) 8881 1800.
