In January this year, regional luxury watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches onboarded KUDOKE into an already impressive portfolio of brands. KUDOKE augments Sincere’s portfolio well, as it is a bright new independent brand (KUDOKE was established in 2005) with fresh perspectives on watchmaking.
The brand is the physical embodiment of Stefan Kudoke’s genius and technical prowess. At 22, he was recognised as a Meisterbrief or Master Craftsmen in Glashütte. Kudoke is also the first independent watchmaker from Germany to win the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Petite Aiguille award. Now 45, he is finally bringing his exquisite creations, such as elegantly understated KUDOKE 1 and the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award-winning KUDOKE 2 to our part of the world.
AUGUSTMAN caught up with Stefan recently to learn more about what makes KUDOKE tick.
AM: How did you come to become a watchmaker?
We had a watch repair and restoration store opposite our house, which I passed every day on my way to school. I discovered the craftsmanship and tradition of watchmaking in the shop window because you could watch the old masters at work through the window and that attracted me. I decided to do an apprenticeship there after my school days and successfully applied for a job in this company with the then head of the guild in Frankfurt in Germany.
It was there that I discovered my passion for fine mechanics and high-quality watchmaking, which I subsequently refined at renowned brands such as “Glashütte Original”.
What does “finishing in a contemporary way” mean to you?
“Contemporary finishing” refers to the refinement or surface treatment of movement parts, particularly in the context of craftsmanship or luxury watchmaking. It includes techniques that ensure the quality and refinement of the final product and make it a high-end product, among other things. We are known for our handcrafted and hand-finished watches, which often combine elements of traditional watchmaking with modern designs.
What are some examples of a traditional finishing executed in the Kudoke way?
We all know of hand engraving, fine details or patterns are engraved into metal by hand. This gives the watches unique, handcrafted details and can be seen as the signature of the craftsman. Strictly speaking, this makes each watch unique, as each engraving is engraved by hand. A lot of us are also familiar with guilloché, a technique in which a pattern is created by precise cutting on metal. We apply this to some dials and wheel bridges of our watches to create rich texture and visual interest. There’s also perlage, or small circular patterns are polished by hand on movement parts. This gives the watches additional visual depth and a touch of sophistication. Finally, there’s reaming, in which our wheel bridges are rubbed in oil with small stones using a special reaming technique. This gives the wheel bridges a very fine and beautifully sparkling surface.
Where did you find your inspiration to create the hand-engraved skeletonised designs in the Kunstwerk collection?
I consider myself more of an artist than a watchmaker when it comes to the artwork collection.
The inspiration for artistic works is often multi-layered and can vary greatly. Ultimately, hand-engraved, skeletonized designs are the result of a creative exploration of different influences and techniques. I study a lot of art, design, graffiti, natural forms of plants and many other topics. I also read a lot of historical watch books and try to combine the themes and create a symbiosis where personal visions and creativity also flow in.
Kudoke watches are just that little bit different from other independent brands out there. Were there aesthetic considerations that you set out to specifically avoid in creating your own brand?
Basically, I have one rule when it comes to aesthetics: Don’t copy the designs of other brands! There are many watch designs where you can recognize where they come from. I find that a bit boring and it doesn’t lead to an independent design language and branding. I try to create something of my own, which also has a certain recognition value for KUDOKE.
Has winning a GPHG award changed you at all? Is there a drive to do something new and win another one?
Winning a prestigious award such as the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is undoubtedly a significant sense of recognition and validation for our watches and our years of hard work on our products. It also helps to increase the reputation and awareness of KUDOKE, which in turn can lead to increased interest from collectors, enthusiasts and potential customers.
Winning the GPHG is also an incentive for us to continue to strive for excellence and improve our skills and creative vision. It encourages us to design new and innovative watches and improve existing models to potentially be nominated for awards again in the future.
Will the brand venture into more complications?
We are constantly working on new ideas and I have been involved with watches for more than half my life. It is certainly one of the biggest challenges to develop new watches, as it feels like everything already exists. Nevertheless, I always try to create something new. I don’t focus on a particular theme or complication. I simply try to develop something that appeals to me first and foremost, and perhaps also to watch collectors. But I won’t go into any more detail at this point. When we have new products ready, we will publish them and present them to watch collectors. Before that, I don’t like to talk about unlaid eggs.
KUDOKE watches are now exclusively available at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques in both Singapore and Malaysia.
