What is the quintessential wear for Singaporeans? At its core, the ‘Singapore uniform’ is all about elevated comfort, staple pieces that are chic enough for casual wear yet can be easily jazzed up into multiple ensembles.
When it comes to menswear, less is truly more, especially when it comes to staples. It is easy enough to be swept by what is trendy at the moment, or to get on the train of the next ‘it’ piece. While I think we can all agree that having a few ‘it’ items is essential (think bags and accessories), the most overlooked yet important part of a collection is the basics. Our capsule wardrobe, if one may.
Take Colony Clothing, for example. The brand, founded by Kozo Kawamura, boasts its collections of luxury resort wear designed for men living in the tropics. Colony Clothing’s distinctive blend of western aesthetics and eastern sensibilities easily wins the heart of many, ticking off the cosy-in-style box with ease. Thus, it came as no surprise when the brand announced a collaboration with the Japanese label BEAMS’ Creative Director, Tatsuya Nakamura, in celebration of its 10th Anniversary, producing a collection centering around the comfort of the urban men.
At a glance, the collaboration itself comprises wardrobe staples. A gent’s basics: shirts, blouses, light jackets. However, BEAMS’ DNA is beyond just basic. Rather, it is ‘basic and exciting’. The curated collection’s ingenuity lies in the unseen: the fabric. Produced by Japanese fabric makers from Hamamatsu and Ichinomiya, each textile used translates to quiet luxury in the simplest forms of a man’s garments. “For me, this particular fabric captures elements of my life up till now, weaving traditional Southeast and East Asian fabric-making techniques, and enriching it with modern Japanese fashion design sensibilities. Design is not about erasing or forgetting the past, but rediscovering it through a new perspective,” says Kawamura on what sets the collection apart.
A conversation with Nakamura-san unveils more of his insight and inspiration behind the collaborative collection.
Tell us more about the collaboration with Colony Clothing to celebrate its 10th year anniversary.
Around the late 80s and early 90s, BEAMS offered a mix of styles with a crossover of various tastes, such as American traditional, French Ivy, and Italian designers. Even for myself, who had only been with the company for a few years, it was the most exciting and most enjoyable period of my life, with clothes of various tastes that I had never experienced before. For this collaboration, I incorporated the various tastes I loved at the time into the urban resort style of Colony Clothing.
What led to the collaborative collection with Colony Clothing?
This project started when I was asked if I could apply my 30+ years of knowledge as a buyer to Colony Clothing’s 10th anniversary items.
I would imagine the fashion scene in Japan and Singapore to be quite different. What is similar and what is vastly different?
I think it is a common point that there are many affluent people of the younger generation who prefer mode-like brands. I think this is true not only in Japan and Singapore, but in Asia as a whole.
In casual situations, many people wear T-shirts or short-sleeve shirts, shorts, sneakers, and sandals, which is the same as summer attire in Japan. The fact that there are quite a few people wearing jackets and suits is a major difference from Japan. Japanese summers are as hot and humid as Singapore’s, but there are quite a few customers who want to wear jackets and suits even in mid-summer.
BEAMS seems to explore the flexibility and creativity that comes with modern contemporary wear. How do you weave this DNA into something more traditional like tailoring?
Generally speaking, people tend to think that classic tailoring is universal and unchanging, but it is changing while gradually incorporating modal trends and the zeitgeist. I believe that it is important to catch these small changes and see how they evolve.
How would you define modern masculinity in the current fashion landscape?
Today’s fashion can be smart enough to fit into an urban city, or relaxed enough to fit into a resort or quiet suburban life. In today’s globalised world, where we can easily travel to any country, it is important for men to dress for the occasion in both business and casual styles.
Is tailoring still cool?
I think it is cool. I think it is the clothing that makes men look most attractive.
What is a modern gentleman’s wardrobe? Tell us your staple pieces.
Jackets, suits, and pants with authentic tailoring.
Casual jackets that can be worn lightly like a cardigan.
Various items (shirts, jackets, outerwear, pants, etc.) inspired by military and workwear.
High-quality knitwear and T-shirt.
Five pockets of authentic construction.
What do you foresee the future of menswear to be like? Are we going back to the classics?
Mode clothing also had a street taste a few years ago but, in the past few years, we have seen a return to a dress style with a
focus on tailoring. In this way, I believe that both dress and casual wear will coexist, being updated with the times. However, I believe that classic tailored clothes will become a hobby for those who prefer them, rather than business wear.
