One of the most unfortunate things about American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat’s legacy is that for a long while, it was hard to measure its true impact on the art world.
Most, such as his friend Andy Warhol and long-time patron David Bowie believe him to be immensely talented. Local actor Joel Choo, pictured in this article, is a fan. “His art style is very distinct, very expressive and rebellious,” he says. “You can tell it’s a Basquiat from the first look.”
Others, and this tended to be people with a rather narrow view of what art is and can be, thumbed their noses at him. Art critic Robert Huges dismissed his work as absurd, while The Daily Telegraph art journalist described Basquiat as a ‘talentless hustler’, whose work never progressed beyond the ‘lowly artistic station’ of graffiti. The artist did not help his case, framing himself to be self-taught, to be from outside the system when it comes to artistic production.
Basquiat himself once famously said, “I never went to an art school. I failed the art courses that I did take in school.” He added, “I just looked at a lot of things. And that’s how I learnt about art, by looking at it.” Today, this is genius. Back then, not so much.
The noise generated by his critics meant that the public at large was never able to properly appreciate while he was active, and the years immediately following his tragic death.
So when the two next big names in fashion, Ev Bravado and Tela D’Amore, decided to use Basquiat, his life and his art as the basis of their new collection with H&M, it was very welcome for fans of the artist and his work. And we couldn’t think of artists more apropos for the cause. The two were recently named semi-finalists for the 2024 LVMH Prize, and were finalists for the 2023 CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund. They are known for their carefully crafted pieces, expert garment distressing and upcycled denim.
With the H&M collaboration, they continue to blur the FOR REAL line between fashion, art, and culture, further amplifying the legacy of Jean-Michel Basquiat through placement prints, embroidery and embroidered patches of his artworks on their signature silhouettes. The 30-piece collection includes tailoring, jackets, short-sleeve shirts, jeans, hoodies, t-shirts and a dress, skirt and corset top, plus accessories. There’s a bomber jacket adorned with the vibrant artwork Ass Killer, 1984 and embroidery of the designers’ arched window, a black blazer with Basquiat’s scribbles about jazz greats Charlie Parker and Miles Davis (Discography 1, 1984), and luxe black leather trousers referencing the artworks Untitled (Ideal), 1988 and Untitled (World Famous), 1983. Other standouts are the unisex distressed denim jacket and matching jeans with Basquiat’s art enshrined in the recurring window design.
It says a lot that Joel loves it – he is, after all, a keen observer on fashion. “When I visit new places, I like to go where young people go to see their local fashion, what they wear,” he says. The collection’s versatility is especially appealing to him.”I would only wear grungey pieces if there is an occasion, but I can see myself integrating the pieces from the shoot with my personal style,” adds Joel, who is currently filming for two Channel 8 Dramas.
They’re great statement pieces, rebellious and art nerd chic at the same time. Basquiat’s artwork adds a dimension of ‘if-you-know-you-know’ je ne sais quoi to it, badges that are manifestos in their own right, brashly proclaiming Basquiat’s ideas on art, life and philosophy.
As per the artist’s own catchphrase: “Boom, for real.”
Shop the drop from 1 Aug at the H&M Orchard Building flagship store and online at hm.com
