At the recent Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva, the watch world buzzed with the unveiling of Zenith’s new Defy Skyline Chronograph. This watch isn’t just another tick on the timeline of luxury timepieces, however; it marks a significant evolution in the storied Defy collection, famed for its bold, cutting-edge design and mechanical prowess. This year, Zenith has added a new chapter to this saga with a watch that embodies both the legacy and the future of high-frequency precision timing, courtesy of the latest El Primero automatic chronograph calibre, featuring a 1/10th of a second function.
The story of the Defy collection begins in 1969, a landmark year for Zenith. This was when the El Primero chronograph calibre was launched, setting a new standard in watchmaking with its high-frequency movement. That same year, Zenith introduced the avantgarde Defy series. The original Reference A3642, affectionately nicknamed “coffre-fort” or “safe”, showcased a bold, edgy design with an octagonal case and 14-sided bezel, embodying a fortress of precision underpinned by robust construction and exceptional water resistance up to 300m.
This original Defy was more than just a watch; it was a statement. Its distinctive “ladder-style” bracelet, crafted by the legendary chainmaker Gay Frères, and its rugged aesthetics positioned it as Zenith’s toughest watch. It even starred in an advertisement where the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle speeding around London’s Wembley Stadium. However, like many mechanical marvels of that era, the Defy faced challenges during the quartz crisis and, by 1977, it was phased out, outpriced by cheaper, batterypowered competitors from Japan.
Fast forward to today, mechanical watchmaking has come back into favour with heritage watchmakers like Zenith playing a starring role in our collective consciousness — and rightly so. The Defy collection has been resurrected and expanded into a collection that pushes the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking.
Defy has grown significantly over the years, including the Skyline series launched in 2022, which now boasts over 20 references ranging from time and date models to intricate skeletons and even tourbillons. Despite Zenith’s rich history with chronographs, the Skyline had yet to feature one — until now. The new Skyline Chronograph, a collection of three new references, features a 42mm stainless steel case that echoes the iconic octagonal shape of the original Defy, but is refined for the 21st century with a sleeker, more angular bezel. This design choice is a nod to its heritage but also a clear indication of its modern appeal, tailored for the contemporary man who navigates effortlessly between professional commitments and active leisure.
