In April, Perfumer Barnabé Fillion spoke to us about Gloam and how he experiences life with all his senses. With Aesop launching the final chapter in the story of Othertopias – a collection of six fragrances inspired by worlds that transcend our immediate perception – AUGUSTMAN sits down with Fillion once again as he talks about the culmination of Othertopias and Ouranon, the final Eau de Parfum within the series.
A Celebration of Endings
Ouranon marks a return home, a prelude to new beginnings, enveloping you in a fragrance that conjures images of a monolith bathed in an ember-like glow against a star-studded sky. Much like the fading remnants of an ancient stone circle, whose true significance has faded with time, it awakens a yearning to transcend the confines of this world and explore the infinite. Barnabé Fillion, the nose behind this olfactory masterpiece, notes, “Ouranon is also about transcendence, similarly to Gloam Eau de Parfum which embodies the state where thoughts turn inwards as the outside world recedes. Here, with Ouranon, we are going to the end, and we really let go, we enter a new cycle—looking at civilisations from the past or questioning the future.”
This aromatic composition elegantly balances the notions of permanence and transience through earthy mineral notes, incandescent spices, and the profound embrace of ritualistic, resinous woods. Its journey commences with a burst of sparkling citrus from Petitgrain, entwined with the verdant vibrancy of Elemi and the fresh, almost camphor-like allure of Lavender Flower. These initial notes gracefully yield to the expansive heart of the fragrance—a harmonious blend of herbaceous Chamomile, accentuated by Hay, and grounded by the opulent presence of resinous Frankincense. The final act of Ouranon transports you to a realm of silent monoliths casting enigmatic shadows under the moonlight, as Myrrh imparts an enduring mineral quality, leading into the deep, earthy embrace of Patchouli and the lush, rounded notes of Tonka. It’s an exquisite conclusion to a mesmerising narrative.
Why do you think Aesop describes this fragrance as elegiac?
Throughout the creation of the Othertopias collection, Ouranon consistently held a distinctive place as the final chapter in the series. It inherently embodied the notion of closure, serving as the one most intimately connected to what we commonly refer to as ‘the end,’ while paradoxically embracing the concept that ‘the end’ is never truly final. It serves as a reflection of the collection’s cyclicality, delving profoundly into themes of transcendence and enduring existence.
The final instalment of Othertopias, Ouranon marks the end of a chapter. Do you think this is the perfect ending to the Othertopias tale?
Yes, it feels right to round off the collection with Ouranon. For the first three Othertopias fragrances, Miraceti, Karst and Erémia, I took inspiration from destinations both real and imagined—from coastlines to high seas. For the subsequent three fragrances, we voyaged into “spaces of the self”. An example: Othertopias evokes essential elements of the human experience. With Eidesis, we used notes to replicate the space between the inner and outer self. On the other hand, Gloam takes cue from the quietude that comes from resting, as the outside world recedes, and our thoughts turn inwards.
This final act in the series, Ouranon, is inspired by the commanding and timeless presence of a monolith, an unyielding enigma that has stirred the imaginations of humanity across the ages, transcending the boundaries of time and space. The monolith represents the past, present and future, and evokes a poetic ending to the collection—or perhaps a stirring new chapter.
Describe Ouranon in one sentence.
Ouranon is a fragrance steeped in resinous woods, earthy minerality and incandescent spices that evokes a sense of the past, present and future. With every spritz, it makes me feel as though i’m disappearing into a vast desert and almost becoming dust, like being absorbed by something infinite.
Who and when can we use Ouranon?
I see Ouranon as an evening scent. The image of ‘the end’ is something rare to connect with. It’s more of a sunset than a sunrise. I see it appealing to probably connoisseurs, and those more inclined to the ambery, opulent-like, tradition of perfumery. Most importantly, it is for the curious as it ignites curiousity.
What can we expect on the first spritz?
The top note of this fragrance presents an intriguing aromatic bouquet, infused with subtle hints of citrus and petitgrain. This aromatic quality is beautifully echoed by the inclusion of Juniper, Lavender Flower, and Elemi. Together, they create a captivating and somewhat dusty yet intensely aromatic opening.
However, what truly defines the essence of this fragrance lies in its base notes. Typically, you would have to patiently wait for the dry-down to experience this depth, but in the case of Ouranon, you can already detect its presence in the initial application.
The base is a harmonious symphony of Myrrh, Styrax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cistus, Tonka, Cedar, and Vetiver, resulting in a complex and multi-faceted foundation. Each component contributes to its warmth, with the rich, dark earthiness of Vetiver and Patchouli evoking the rugged beauty of the red desert in Petra. Styrax and Myrrh imbue the composition with a timeless quality, reminiscent of ancient fossils or weathered stones. Sandalwood adds a rounded, sensuous dimension, while Cistus extends the herbaceous heart note. The introduction of Tonka, a debut ingredient in Aesop’s fragrances, enhances the overall allure.
What’s the lasting note?
The experience of this fragrance is deeply personal and contingent on the wearer. Given its intricate and multi-faceted nature, the fragrance creates a unique olfactory journey on every individual’s skin. Personally, I find that the enduring impression is primarily shaped by the presence of Frankincense in the heart note—a remarkable ingredient that comes in both its essential and super essence forms.
The essential oil of Frankincense possesses a slightly more aromatic, herbaceous, and fresh quality. In contrast, the super essence of Frankincense emanates a profound and voluminous character, evoking a sense of mineral richness and a fossil-like essence. As you inhale its scent, you can almost envision the rugged rocks and the hardened resin of Frankincense, transitioning from a mere essence into a dry, almost fossilized substance. It’s an ingredient that holds a special place in my heart, perhaps even my favorite, for it carries a unique mystique. Frankincense, revered in various rituals for its smoky essence and captivating aroma, adds a distinctive and meaningful dimension to this fragrance.
