New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 kicked off February fashionably, marking the beginning of a series of events in London, Milan and Paris in the coming weeks.
The NYFW lineup saw a total of 70 brands, including established names such as Altuzarra, Anna Sui, Area, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, Gabriela Hearst, Eckhaus Latta, LaQuan Smith, Luar, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch and the 2023 CFDA designers of the year in womenswear and menswear, Khaite and Willy Chavarria, respectively.
Peter Do started the fashion week with his second collection as Helmut Lang’s creative director, which contemplated the contrast between armour and adornment. Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made a striking debut at New York Fashion Week with a tribute to photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.
Additionally, regulars at the NYFW such as Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Luar and Michael Kors maintained their position as significant highlights of the season.
So in case you missed the show, we round up the best menswear looks from the New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 season.
Menswear highlights from New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024
Helmut Lang
For his sophomore collection at Helmut Lang, creative director Peter Do presented a collection titled Protection vs. Projection, with a concept aimed at the contemporary world, where one can never predict when safeguards such as facial shields, enclosing zippers, water-resistant hoods and bulletproof materials might become essential.
The menswear collection featured an assortment of vests, bomber jackets, nylon puffer jackets, wool coats, cable knit sweaters, puffy trousers, utilitarian jackets and trousers along with hoodies in an earthy toned colour palette.
Coach
Coach unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection at The James B. Duke House, showcasing creative director Stuart Vevers‘ contemporary reinterpretation of the brand’s heritage. This presentation aimed to redefine the house’s authentic New York legacy and luxury codes by incorporating a hint of self-expression.
The collection featured heritage archetypes in leather, denim and cotton, skillfully distressed to communicate a message about the aesthetic appeal and value of clothing. For seasonal outerwear, the American label continued to enhance its iconic pieces like the trench coat, leather jackets and shearling jackets. A fresh perspective was also introduced with a reimagined cardigan jacket crafted from distressed materials inspired by workwear.
LUAR
Nobody does a broad shoulder quite like Luar does 👏 pic.twitter.com/MIBxIczpGN
— Kea (@jacquemusx) February 14, 2024
Designer Raul Lopez presented the Fall/Winter 2024 runway show for his self-named brand, LUAR. Having earned a prominent place on the New York Fashion Week calendar, he is known for his modern and culturally aware designs.
The collection, titled Deceptionista, served as a commentary on the resurgence of metrosexuality. Blending elements of the past with the present, the runway showcased a fusion of old and new designs, including the brand’s signatures, such as oversized boulder shoulders on tailored pieces and outerwear. Meanwhile, some of the other standout pieces from the collection included sheer tops, nylon trenchcoats, silk graphic shirts and printed coats.
LaQuan Smith
Glamour ruled the runway show at LaQuan Smith’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, with the clothes speaking for themselves and setting a tone for the upcoming seasonal months. In the show’s accompanying notes, the designer expressed that the latest collection blends into everyday attire reimagined through the distinctive style of LaQuan Smith.
The menswear looks consisted of satin three-piece suits, long trench coats, oversized velvet coats, flowy trousers, silk shirts in bright red, straight trousers and striped button-up shirts, making them ready for any high-end affair.
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Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his New York Fashion Week debut with his latest Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The Belgian designer has been presenting his collections at the Paris Fashion Week ever since the brand’s launch in 2017. For the 2024 collection, the designer hinted at a partnership with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, specifically drawing inspiration from the American photographer’s flower photographs.
De Saint Sernin was captivated by Mapplethorpe’s characterisation of these emotionally charged pieces, where he described the intertwining concepts that ‘beauty and the devil are the same thing’. Some of those graphics were printed on sleeveless see-through shirts and vests, sheer blouses, gender-fluid off-shoulder and halter tops. Whereas, the rest of menswear looks consisted of button-down shirts, ties, regular-fitting trousers and leather coats and jackets.
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria‘s Fall/Winter 2024 presentation started with a short film titled Safe From Harm. The presentation captured the different stages of love, portraying moments of pain, frustration, reconciliation, romance and enduring passion.
The models walked down the runway in oversized silhouettes and broad-shouldered tailoring along with checkered pants, loose-pleated trousers and baggy denim, plaid trench coats and shirts along with bomber and leather jackets. Here, the colour palette featured winter hues including navy, black, brown, beige, white and charcoal.
Tommy Hilfiger
For Tommy Hilfiger‘s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, the designer went completely American featuring the brand’s signature red, blue and white colours in a preppy form. During the runway presentation, the brand showcased its timeless ’90s silhouettes, such as rugby shirts, straight blazers and varsity jackets, transformed with materials like corduroys and chalky pinstripes.
While maintaining a connection to American aesthetics with its rich traditional colours, the collection also embraced a neutral palette, featuring tones like tans, beiges, browns, greys, black and white.
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(Hero and feature image credit: Courtesy Instagram/Coach, LaQuan Smith and Ludovic de Saint Sernin)